How to detail a car

September 09 2021

All image credits: Kristen Lee

The tactile pleasure of running a microfiber towel over my freshly waxed car, especially in the summer makes very few things in life give me as much joy. I try to really detail it twice a year: once before winter and another time during the summer. Here's how you can do it right too!

The following list of things should keep in mind before you start:

When soaping down while using microfiber chenille sponges try not to go too hard or fast as some drivers may fail at thoroughly rinsing out all remnants of product which could lead to scratches later during drying stage if residue remains throughout the vehicle body after toweling dry surface area.

  • Don't park in direct sunlight. This evaporates the water and leaves water spots. 
  • Remove any jewelry on your fingers or wrists, and don’t have anything metal that could scratch the car if you brush up against it like necklaces, zippers, or buttons .
  • If drop a claybar/microfiber towel/sponge on the ground for later use do not reuse since these items will pick up all kinds of grit after touching the floor which can damage paint job while cleaning
  • Wash the car in sections, top to bottom.
  • Spray your vehicle down first with a hose before using soap and rinsing it off again when you are done.
  • When washing, use a circular motion and work from top to bottom. For the tires, make sure you have a rougher sponge for cleaning off brake dust on your wheels.
  • Before soap up the car with water or any liquid solution that is designed for cars, just ensure there are no particles leftover in this bucket due to previous contents being dirtier than normal by ensuring it’s clear of anything foreign before beginning scrubbing process.


Basic Dawn dish soap is okay, as long as you plan to seal and/or wax the car at the end (you’re wasting your time if you don’t, you monster).
Loping_Camshaft / 2021-09-09 07:45:00

Loping Camshaft is on point with this advice. A quality dual action polisher is both user friendly and actually a joy to use.The product recommendations are also very good. I would add that for windows I like No Streek polish (it applies like a wax and super easy to remove and as a bonus it is dirt cheap on Amazon. Stoner’s Invisible Glass is the standard for spray cleaners).Finally, there are several excellent detailing forums (Meguiars/ Autogeek, Autopia, etc) but be prepared to go down the rabbit hole.
longdx / 2021-09-09 07:15:44

I haven’t used Klasse’s stuff, but have no reason to doubt it. If you get it for a good price, give it a shot. They are big into the “All in one” idea, which I generally shy away from. Time or budget constraints notwithstanding, I prefer to pick and choose the best product for each operation.I mentioned the idea of a ceramic coating as more of a last step after doing a paint correction yourself. I didn’t realize it would be quite that expensive to have a pro do it. If that’s the case, I would probably investigate a car clear-bra (aka paint protection film, PPF) or full car colored wrap which will give real protection against rock chips and such. But like most stuff, it’s a function of your time, budget, experience, and willingness to learn. If you’re not ready to apply a coating yourself, it’s probably not worth it. From what I’ve seen, a lot of detail pros will cover the most vulnerable areas (hood, fenders, side skirts) with PPF and the rest with ceramic coating.Also, PPF can definitely become a priority if you put on a lot of miles, especially highway miles.
Loping_Camshaft / 2021-10-09 15:54:36

right on point with a lot of things i’ve read, learned, practiced. Dawn is good for a pre-wax to remove any residue and have a clean base to start fresh. use a clay bar! lotta folks don’t even seem to know they exist, or are afraid to rub clay on their paint.N/S motion on the sides, F/B motion on the hood and roof. a dedicated blower is very helpful drying. windows effin suck, but as infrequently as i do mine, 4 parts water, 1 each vinegar and iso does a great job (tip to wipe side to side inside and top-bottom outside to identify where streaks are). 2 applications work best, again, because i tend to only do my windows every few months.have you heard of/tried ? there are quite a few classic cars in the fam and i, dad, uncles, cousins all started using their stuff in the last few years. using it is more complicated than a bottle of maguire’s, but the difference is very noticeable. their tire shine is awesome too, no sticky residue or splatters on the fenders.
johnny_ryall / 2021-10-19 21:36:00

Yep, I have one too. Definitely helps with the idea that you should touch the (unprotected) paint as little as possible. Are you foaming, letting it sit while you get soap on your mitt from a bucket and use the mitt with the foam still on the car? Or do you just mean the dirt comes off easier?I only really bother with it on really dirty cars and use it as a “pre-soak”. Spray it, maybe do the wheels, or get my buckets and stuff ready, then spray it off. It certainly doesn’t hurt to use, but I don;t have problems with scratching as long as I’m up on my wax/sealant maintenance; that protects it enough to prevent scratches from loose dirt.Then again, I live in WI where there is little to no dust and park in a garage, that might affect how you wash too. And with that, even though I’m in one of the most “water-rich” areas in the country, I’ve been doing more to minimize my water use.Unless I’ve taken a road trip and I have tons of bugs or something, I’ve just been using Optimum No-Rinse, a waffle weave drying towel, and Meguiar’s Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax, and then rinse of the wheels and brakes. Works great for a quick weekly “touch up” wash, only takes 20 mins (I have a truck), and uses very little water.
Loping_Camshaft / 2021-10-30 03:18:48

I use Einszett (let’s just call it 1Z) for everything except cloth, leather, and clear plastic (like on the gauges). 303 works better than most stuff, but still can be a little too glossy and greasy, so I use that mainly for exterior trim and seals.For actual leather, definitely use a proper leather cleaner/conditioner and do that a few times per year, depending on how much you use the car and how much it’s in the oven sun. I can’t say I have a lot of experience with different leather products, but I’ve been using and it works great. Work it into the seat etc with a microfiber, applying liberally, then after maybe half an hour, wipe everything down with a clean MF. Not too slippery and unlike 303, it actually conditions the leather (think lotion for your hands) but still has UV protection.I’m sure the other major brands’ stuff is fine too.
Loping_Camshaft / 2021-11-09 20:42:44

Have a dedicated tire and possibly separate wheel brush (depending on how hard it is to get between the spokes) and do this near the end of your routine using the wash bucket. Or have a 3rd bucket dedicated to tires. Specialized wheel cleaner is good too.You’ll need multiple brushes for wheels. Tooth brush style, wheel woolies, Horse Hair style (Race Glaze makes a set) and the EZ detail brush. You’ll also need a fender brush, and everything should sit in a dedicated bucket with APC.When possible, DO NOT use circular motions for washing, go front to back or “North and South”. No matter what, you’re bound to create tiny scratches, circular motions make scratches that are more easily seen that straight lines.That’s a myth. It’s the light source which determines the shape of the scratches. You could make a bunch of straight scratches, but use a round point light source and they will look round.I recognize that people have the best intentions but sometimes lack the knowledge or experience, but don’t waste your time with trying hand polish.It works, it’s just slow. There is places my polisher won’t fit, and a good hand applicator and polish that works well by hand are always handy to have around.Wax is okay, but be prepared to re-do it every few weeks, depending on if you have a garage, the weather, how much you drive, and the kind of wax. A MUCH better solution for 98% of people is to use a synthetic sealant. My favorite is Blackfire Wet Diamond (not a strip club), but there are lots of other good brands. Sealant lasts MUCH longer (think 3 months rather than 3 weeks). If you hate yourself, you can top sealant with wax, for a 2% improvement. Sealant is also generally easier to apply and remove by hand. it is typically more expensive. Also leaves less residue when you inevitably get it on black trim paces.This is another myth. There is very few full carnuba waxes on the market. Most of them are what are known as “hybrids”. Products blending both a sealant (polymer) and carnuba wax together to get longer duration and natural carnuba “looks”. Try out Collinite 476s before you say carnuba waxes don’t last. Also, 3 months is a short duration for any half decent wax or sealant. We won’t get into coatings today.As others have said, yes put sealant on the windows. It makes a big difference and lasts longer than a gimmicky thing like Rain-X.If you clean windows properly with steel wool or a razor blade you don’t NEED to seal them. It helps if you have broken wipers but a bare, fully stripped window wipes really well, and doesn’t cause the wipers to jump like most sealants do.“Windows are easy”. No, windows are hard. Don’t use Windex. It has ammonia and other bullshit in it that will hurt your tint. Use an actual car window spray, I like Stoner’s Invisible Glass. Use lightly on a MF. Another favorite (for cleaning all kinds of stuff) is somewhat diluted isopropyl alcohol.The trick with windows is to clean in stages. I have a coupe terry clothes that don’t lint, and then 1 really nice window cloth. I hit the windows twice when they are really greasy, sometimes with IPA. Going over once more with the window cleaner and the nice rag gets the last bits and removes the smudges and grease.
someoneatacura / 2021-11-20 02:24:06

I got the tip about wiping in straight lines from Larry Kosilla’s videos. It’s a simple thing, so I go with it.He’s pretty good, but some of the stuff he does is either excessive, wasteful, or just plain wrong.Using a cheap orbital polisher is what made me want to figure out the right way to do things. They’re more hassle than their worth in my opinion I agree when it comes to the unit picture above. The Porter cable units are much better and will generate proper results if you know what you’re doing (SMAT polishes, Microfiber pads, Kevin Brown method). Hand polishing is a good skill to have though, and it will give you popeye arms. I’ve used Collinite on boats and it’s worked pretty well and have heard only good things about it. I was just thinking about fact that most people will be buying the liquid Turtle Wax at Autozone. And of course, longevity depends on a lot of things. I tested it against Finish Kare 1000P and Bilt Hamber Finnis wax, and it bested FK1000P by a good margin (which is a high heat sealant). And I also agree that prep is key to having any wax/sealant/coating last. I tested a 2 part Coating made for our detailing department on my RDX after claying, but I didn’t use the chemical stripping agent they specify for prep (just used IPA) and it didn’t work worth a damn. Re did the car and stripped it with their proper chemical and i’m already over 2 months on and it’s still beading and sheeting like new (and this is a car that is parked outside). Never had anything but perfect results with sealant on windows. If it’s grabby on the wipers, that says to me that either the windshield needs to be clayed or you didn’t wipe off thoroughly enough, or you have some kind of bad sealant. BFWD on clayed glass is a smooth as you can be.I’ve used Griots Garage and Rain X window coatings (TBH, same shit) but both would cause wipers to jump. I have factory wipers on my RDX (new inserts FTW) and which I just clean the window and wool it (better then clay) it works great.
someoneatacura / 2021-11-29 20:24:19

I follow a lot of this advice, except I’m always trying to figure out a better way to dry my car. I’ve always used a chamois, of the synthetic variety. It seems to work better than a microfiber cloth for drying, as the microfiber cloths I have always seem to bead water off the cloth instead of absorbing it, thus leaving streaks of water behind on the surface of the paint. Even chamois cloths will streak, but it is fine enough that it dries pretty quickly and doesn’t leave water spots. Any suggestions for drying? I use a lot of the Meguiars products for washing and detailing, including their clay bar kit and compounds. Seems to work OK. I like their interior quick detailer a lot. Doesn’t leave a lot of shine on the interior, but I’m not sure how good of a protectant it is.I also stopped using windex a couple years ago, that stuff is bad for tinting as you have said. I use an aerosol foam window cleaner that works great.I’ll have to check out that 303 Aerospace gel, I’ve heard great things about that before for door seals. I will probably clean them first with car wash soap and water, and apply some of that. What do you think about those large soft bristled brushes for washing? They seem to save a lot of time with scrubbing. Not sure if it is doing more harm than good, I can’t really tell, but I’m always careful to keep it extra clean and rinse it off frequently.
shawnwayne / 2021-12-07 03:54:15

Observations:-get that car under some shade to wash and detail. I wash mine under the shade of a tree, and detail in my garage. -polish up those hazy headlights-use invisible glass instead of windex. less streaking. IF YOU’VE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE, don’t use a regular buffer. Get a dual action polisher. Much less chance of destroying your paint from staying in one spot too long.
lewis26 / 2021-12-19 08:24:18

Griot’s Garage does make good stuff all around and you don’t have to overwhelm yourself with researching, and comparing if you don’t have the time or patience. That’s not to say they have the best solution for every situation, but it’s decent stuff at an okay price. Their small dual action polishers are a great place to start (they have kits with pads and polish too). Shop around for occasional deals on them too:
Loping_Camshaft / 2021-12-26 15:54:07

How many of you people have wrapped your car? Do you find it to make this process easier? ...and therefore a worthwhile investment to preserve the exterior? This seems to be a hot topic on various forums, curious to the Jalop’s take on this.
gt9729b / 2022-01-05 21:36:12

Ignore the nay-sayers. If it’s in your budget (factor in time) wrapping can be great. Are you talking clear-bra or a different color/finish altogether? The main thing is to make sure the car is very well detailed before the wrap goes on. It protects the paint (for resale) and is much easier to clean since you don’t have to be quite as careful.Another option is a synthetic coating. Think “hard candy shell” that is semi permanent (a few years) and protects a bit against rock chips etc. One well known brand to look up is CQuartz Finest Professional Ceramic Coating. There are other brands with similar takes on the same idea. You can DIY if you want, but it would be a good idea for most people to leave it to a pro.
Loping_Camshaft / 2022-01-18 02:06:39

Better than wax is to use something anti-static. Wax sucks . It adds depth but it attracts dirt. Something like Reload a Synthetic Glass Coating with anti-static properties is far superior. Why? because you will not have to wash your car or windows as frequently and therefore it will avoid scratching long term. I would advise against an actual wax on the window. This stuff is insane. I installed it the first time when I lived in New Orleans. Even in thunderstorms you barely need to use wipers! Also when bugs would hit the windshield the would be quickly wisped away. Well worth the effort.Reload works great to and is a lot less effort and would last longer than the past stuff with less effort. This is the sealant I recommend:Same effort as quick detailer but with better results than that paste wax or the paste sealants. Plus it is anti-static so the car does not get as dirty. For the ultimate in protection though I recommend a coating such as CQuartz:It makes the coating on the clear coat harder reducing the capacity for dirt to scratch, is anti-static and provides UV/acid rain protection for up to 2 years. Just Reload every 3 months.
darkcloak / 2022-01-24 21:54:41

I’ve been reading a lot of trade detailing blogs lately and this is a pretty spot-on overview. Some of the things I’ve picked up in my reading -- Use a rinse bucket, it’s like $5 and takes an extra 2 mins. Don’t introduce grit into your suds. They also have these cool open weave “platforms” called grit guards that sit at the bottom of the bucket to minimize grit kicking up when you dunk your sponge, pretty neat for $10. - Compounding and scratch removal should be done very rarely as its too aggressive, use polish instead which is a finer grit compound. Meguiars 205 is popular and easy to find (they even have it at Harbor Freight)- Spray wax-as-you-dry is great as a maintenance coat, but if it’s been a long while paste is still best. You’re better off ordering this one though, the off the shelf is just OK. - Microfiber drying towels are The Truth. I just got one, and holy god. - The less pressure the better!! Float the crap off your car, don’t rub it into the paint. Some people blot dry their cars, because between the two of those that’s where scratches usually come from.
notsomethingstructural / 2022-02-06 02:24:05

Use 2 buckets when washing your car: one for the car “shampoo” (like meguiars gold class for OTC), and one to rinse and scrub your dirty chammy/microfiber mitt. While you’re at it, buy a grit guard and put it at the bottom of your bucket (i prefer it in my rinse bucket).Don’t use a nozzle when rinsing the car (wheels are fine). It’s inefficient and you waste water, as it splatter off your car. Just let the water flow from the hose onto the surface of your car and watch it sweep away the “shampoo”. You’ll also get to see how deprived of wax your paint is too. Use wheel brushes: one for the surface and another to get in between the nooks and crannies. While you’re at it, buy a bottle or two of Sonax wheel cleansers. It’ll remove lots of fine brake dust and other metals from the surface of your wheels.Use a dual action polisher, like Porter Cable 7424 XP. It won’t heat up the paint like orbitals and much easier to use for the beginner and for light swirl removal and waxing. It’ll also save you hours of elbow grease. Also invest in some quality pads for polishing and waxing.Do not let the wax dry completely. Use Meguiars NXT window cleaner. It works a hell of a lot better than Windex and won’t leave any residue after it dries.
juanmoretime / 2022-02-16 08:06:27

I am curious on everyone’s opinion on using a pressure washer on a car. Generally, before I use a sponge to manually wash the car, I use a pressure washer to remove as much dirt, grit, bug parts, etc. as possible. Are there any significant CONs to doing this?
abcs / 2022-02-25 14:24:16

Depends on the pressure, the type of contaminant you’re trying to clean off, the condition of the surface to be cleaned, etc.I realize you’re looking for a more generalized answer, but the variables really do have a considerable effect here. A well-waxed surface sheds bugs more easily than when they’re baked directly onto the clearcoat. And pressure washers come in all different levels of blasting power.I don’t know what kind of effect high pressure has on wax, but if you have any peeling clearcoat *cough90'sGMcough*, hitting it with the pressure washer could take off even more. It could also hurt trim adhesives or find its way into crevices that you really don’t want it to go, particularly if you’re hitting it point-blank. That risk is even higher if you’re spraying the engine compartment clean.
urambotauro / 2022-03-06 20:42:29

First, you should use a sealant prior to the waxing. Sealants and waxes are the same thing, sealants are just synthetic. Why seal before waxing? Sealant lasts longer than wax. Some sealants offer true 6 month (they claim 12) protection, but you can certainly count on 3 months. Wax, however, offers superior shine and depth to sealants. I personally go with Chemical Guys’ Blacklight, then Jetseal in that order. The Blacklight is a sealant but has properties that are similar to a glaze, meaning it will “fill” imperfections, hiding them. All waxes and sealants to this to a degree, but glazes are designed for this purpose. The Jetseal the provides a long lasting protection layer to the Blacklight. On top of that, I use either Pete’s 53 (only on dark colors), Zymol’s high end stuff, or a high carnauba content wax. The depth and shine are unrealDepth is one of those things that people love, but don’t understand that they love it. Hell, I can’t even properly explain it. The best way I can communicate depth is to tell people to look at an iPhone4. Apple added the back glass layer, which could be easily damaged, and came with a weight and thickness penalty for 1 reason - it added depth and made the phone look beautiful. It can be that important.Depth on your vehicle’s finish makes the color look richer, enhances the vehicle’s lines, etc. Stated another way, depth does everything you want a wax/sealant to do.The sealant/wax stage is the easiest part of the detailing process, so you might as well do 3 or more coats since you’ve already done the hard work.
BiPolarWithCars / 2022-03-17 14:06:06

When washing, use a circular motion and work from top to bottomFor the love of all things vehicular, DO NOT DO THIS. Washing should always be done in straight swipes, preferable in the same direction that air would flow over the body. Using circular motions is a sure fire way to put swirls all over your car. Couple other things that deserve a mention, when doing paint, you should really use 2 buckets, preferably with a grit-guard in each. One bucket is used for clean wash water, the other is your rinse. That way when you rinse it out, the contaminates in your wash mitt don’t get in your clean wash water, you rinse it first, wring the dirty water out, then pick up more wash water with soap. I even like to use a 3rd bucket with a separate mitt for wheels so brake dust doesn’t get onto paint anywhere ever, even have that bucket marked so it is never used on paint. I actually wouldn’t recommend straight orbitals to most people, they are too easy to do damage with. Most professionals don’t even like to use them. Dual Action Orbitals are where it is at now, instead of just a straight spin which builds up heat quickly and eats up paint, they have some lateral movement as well which not only makes it easier to preserve paint, it allows you to hit a larger area quicker. As far as wax, if you actually want protection, you should use a sealant instead. Waxes only last a couple days, or in direct hot sunlight a couple hours. They don’t offer much protection, just shine. Sealants actually offer a hard coating that can resist some minor wear and make a barrier from things that may get on your paint, these typically last months. They have a shine to them, but typically not as much as a wax, but if you want the higher shine, you can then put wax on top of the sealant.For windows on automotive glass, Windex isn’t the greatest thing. Your better off using a 50-50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water or Stoner’s Invisible glass. The ammonia that is typically in indoor glass cleaners can cause some odd fogging and hazing in outdoor applications. Also using a plastic razor with a long reach handle to scrap the window clean can also get off stubborn messes. Claying windows also makes a huge difference. Then applying Rain-X or a similar water repellent properly can hugely increase visibility in the rain.
emeraldflame / 2022-03-26 20:24:39

My advice: Don’t use a microfiber wash mitt or towel. You’re not scrubbing your car (at least you shouldn’t be) so you don’t need all that extra cleaning power. Plus; they hold onto dirt much too well and are a pain to rinse out. Just like you don’t want to use a clay bar after hitting the ground, you don’t want to use an always dirty wash mitt. I prefer an extra plush cotton or synthetic sheep mitt that will hold lots of water and soap before having to re-soak it. Save your microfiber stuff for waxing, polishing and detailing.Also, don’t use a rinse bucket. I don’t know when this started becoming a fad and for what reason but after you use it once you are essentially rinsing your wash mitt in dirty water. I see people do this with dishes as well and I don’t get it. Simply take a few seconds and rinse the mitt with a hose on the shower setting before you’re ready to put it back in the wash bucket. If you only rinse the mitt after each panel (like I do), you’ll find you probably use less water this way than filling a rinse bucket (if it’s about saving water) and your mitt will always be as clean as it was from the very beginning.And one last tip: Use a separate cloth (an old but clean microfiber cloth is fine for this) to clean the areas around the rockers and wheel wells that pick up tar, oil and grease. You don’t want to dirty your main wash mitt with this stuff as it’s very hard to rinse out. I actually like to do this part (along with the tires and rims) first before the main wash to get the heavier dirt off.
6stringtheory / 2022-04-05 14:24:48

I don’t even know where to start.1. If you drop a clay bar, you CAN re use it. You have to pick the grit out and fold it over like you normally would. 2. You would be using 2 buckets with grit guards. Grit guards keep sponges off of the bottom of the bucket, and let dirt fall away from the wash mitt. Having a pressure washer and foam cannon is highly recommended, but I digress.3. Do not scrub or clay in circular motions! Back and forth only, keeps swirls to a minimum, and the ones that do appear, it’s easier to buff them out later on.4. You should be paint correcting as little as possible. If you maintain the car right, you should MAYBE need to correct the paint once every few years (technically never, but I know that won’t happen). Every time you buff a car, you’re taking off paint. The more you do it, the thinner the clear coat, and the more susceptible to swirls it’ll be. 5. Ditch that crappy buffer. At very least get a Griots orbital (Rupes is the best though, but very expensive).6. Wax is old news. The new generation of sealants kills wax in not only protection, but in longevity and luster. I personally like Sonax Polymer Netshield. It has excellent hydrophobic properties (water beads like crazy), it is extremely to apply and remove, and lasts a long time.7. Windows are easy? You nuts? Hardest part, hands down.
maddmax / 2022-04-16 07:48:57

I like tire shine. Armor All lasts like a day. However this advertises that it lasts weeks and it does indeed last at least one:Ive also read, and tried, using window cleaner and a micro fiber towel rather than paper towels. Seems to work well.Learn how to repair paint chips properly yourself as you can fix pretty much any ding or scratch and make your car look even better. Paint dries pretty quick and just a little Meguiars Rubbing Compound 2.0 will smooth it out without scratching the shit out of your car. Ive repaired dozens and you cannot tell where. The scratch remover mentioned comes in hella handy if you over rub the fix.
travismcotton / 2022-04-23 03:36:35

Save money when you do the whole clay bar thing and use your wash water. Don’t use it too often a it is an abrasive. Don’t use dirty old microfiber towels on your paint. Aside from the towels I use to dry and spray detail, they get used once and put in the wash. The towels that are used for the paint are ONLY used on the paint.DO NOT use solvent based tire shines. They will draw the oils out of the rubber. Personally I use a carnuba based product.After I wash I either spray detail or spray wax. It clears off any water spots or inconsistencies, missed spots etc. Makes a world of difference and really doesn’t take that long.
mike-d-f / 2022-05-02 21:36:01

Personal opinion, but on a glorious summer afternoon, I’m more likely to be sitting on my back patio with a whiskey sour while the kid from down the street washes my car for $10.It’s too damn hot for me in August to be doing manual labor outside. So until I can teach my dog how to properly operate a hose and bucket, little Timmy is going to have to suck it up if he wants to buy new Pokemons.
SmugAardvark / 2022-05-12 03:54:02

It’s just two steps after wash. Klasse all-in-one ()thenKlasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze ()Takes the better part of an afternoon. Do it twice a year and your car will always look freshly waxed. You only need to water it down and dry to clean it off most times. (use quick detailer to every once in awhile to keep it perfect)
CrymeLord / 2022-05-23 20:42:30

Circular motions do not belong in detailing. Circular scratches can be seen from any angle whereas straight line scratches can only be see from certain angles. Go in straight lines just in case you get anything stuck in your towel or applicatorUmmm...compound after a swirl remover/polish....that’s totally backwards. A compound is an aggressive abrasive, whereas a polish is much lighter.
viperguy21 / 2022-06-03 14:06:08

2 tips from a body shop owner I know:1. Never wash, wax, or polish in a circular motion. The best way to avoid swirl marks is to never introduce the pattern into your car’s paint. Move in long straight passes with the lengthwise lines of the car.2. Don’t use a power polisher/buffer unless you really know what you are doing.
bigmetricnutz / 2022-06-13 08:06:25